A month into my stay in Paris, I feel like I've hit my stride. Such a good week.
Tuesday continued the everything's-going-perfectly trend. It started with the IHT human resources tour (a month late). Now I officially know every nook of the building in Neuilly and I got a copy of the handbook that all the new employees get, even the reporters.... It almost feels like I'm cheating the IHT system. I'm getting the benefits of being a full-time employee at the Tribune, being privy to all the workings of the office and its gossip (Lenny Kravitz is apparently on 13 rue de beaux arts at l'hotel with Alex Rodriguez' wife and another man), but I also have time to run around the city with my friends, write articles for Globespotters, and travel on the weekends. I guess that's my compensation for putting up with mail sorting and emailing slugs half the day.
Another plus to this week has been working downstairs in the business section. The atmosphere's a lot more lively, I'm working a lot more closely with the editors and the journalists--they actually know my name! We banter across the tables, tease each other when we yawn or say stupid things (picnic Chuck will never live down "Pump it up"). And when I have nothing to do, I alternate between reading the NY Times and IHT (it's actually encouraged. This is why I have to work at a newspaper) and writing the Financial Communications intern bible. "Congratulations, you will soon join the ranks of picture choosing caption writing masters."Writing captions and choosing photos actually beats mail sorting and stapling any day... Apparently people do read captions: A big stir was caused on Friday when a blog entry questioning Richard Branson's "green"ness was illustrated with a picture of him on an SUV and captioned "Note the gas-guzzler. How green is he really? You decide." Bonjour angry comments!
I've also been feeling a lot more integrated into work. There was an intern get together last week in St. Germain, I have plans to go to an indie cinema with Paula, the Panamanian intern, and Simon, the graduate in charge of the audio slide shows and videos on the IHT website, and I are heading to a jazz club in the 2nd on Thursday. Sweet. (Confusingly, Ignacio and Isobel are the interns in the picture.)
I think I also like working downstairs better because the tension in the office is a little less evident. The paper's been undergoing a lot of changes recently--there's been two going away parties just within the last week--and people have been more than a little on edge.Two Fridays ago, the Deputy Managing Editor Bob Marino retired after 30 years at the Tribune. Last Thursday, Michael Oreskes left the tribune for the AP. Part of it's to do with the fact that the NY Times is trying to swallow us whole. They bought the IHT i
n 2003 and have since added "Global Edition of the New York Times" under the International Herald Tribune heading on the paper copy. At a meeting two weeks ago, they announced their plans to do away completely with the International Herald Tribune name and to completely merge the IHT and NYTimes websites. Bad idea New York Times, bad idea. A lot of people have things against the Times and would much sooner pick up a copy of the Herald Tribune. The Times needs to realize that the Herald Tribune name really does command a lot of respect and that it fills a very different niche than the NY Times could (should?) ever. Regardless, the Tribune's hoping to move out of its office in Neuilly by the end of the year. I can only imagine what the fall interns'll have to do. I can all too easily picture them paddling down the Seine three boats in a row-- The I, the H and the T--lugging second editions, the NDR India supplement and Alison Smale.....Needless to say, this is a very interesting time to be working at the Tribune.
At both going away parties, the overriding sentiment of the speeches was that this will be a very trying period for the Herald Tribune, what with the economic model of print media being financially impractical and the NY Times trying to take us over.
Bob Marino: I'm extremely proud to have worked with journalists and editors like you. For the amount of people we have, the paper we put out is incredible. I don't think the people in New York realize how hard you all work. [Someone shouts: "They will soon!" Everyone half laughs, half sighs.] You should be very proud of yourselves.
Michael Oreskes: Everywhere I go, people know and read the Herald Tribune. It is the paper people turn to and you guys are the ones who make it. I am extremely honored to have worked with all of you. Now don't stop drinking. [More bottles of champagne pop.]
"Newspaper writing?" they asked.
"Well, yes, actually. Maybe." I said."Agh! No!"
With all this turmoil at the Herald Tribune and all this talk of doom and gloom for the newspaper industry, I really shouldn't be even more determined to go into journalism. ("More determined" would be a stretch. I swore off the school newspaper in high school and only dragged myself onto The Crimson when I could write a biweekly column on food.) But somehow in the past few weeks, journalism's become more and more something I just have to do.
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On Wednesday, I finally had the picnic on the banks of the Seine that I've been dying for since I got here. Emily, an old friend from nerd camp (CTY) who is currently interning at the Times in Paris, called and invited me to join her and her friends on the quai under Pont Neuf. We lived up to our nerd camp past, telling jokes with allusions to Freud, and we confessed our bipolar Parisian mood swings (ah yes, I'm not alone). She may be living in a water closet in the 16th, I may live in fear of knocking my bed over if I sleep too close to the edge, but how can we complain when we're in our twenties, with our friends, and doing journalism in Paris?
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Met up with Elsa, Giuli, Andres and Alina at Parc des Princes for the Mika Concert. WHAT a way spend the fourth of july. 6 hours of standing for Yelle, Panic! at the Disco, Dionysos and MIKA was so worth it. How is this real life?
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Now that I'm fully trained in two posts, I'll be working by myself tomorrow for the first time in the Newsroom. I'm a little scared because it's been a while since I've worked the post and I've never worked a Sunday before and they're run a little differently than normal days, but I'll study my notes beforehand and hopefully all will go smoothly. I'm glad to have more responsibility.Oh and I emailed Alison Deighton, the owner of Hotel Vannucci, and everything is all set for the apprenticeship in Italy. I can't believe i'm leaving in less than a month. If life is surreal now and I feel like it's only going to get stranger.